Alcoutim
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If you detour slightly away from the crowds and the bustle of the tourist centres and head north on the road winding along the Guadiana River you can enjoy superb views of orchards and orange groves. Roughly 40 km north of where the river enters the sea the lovely town of Alcoutim lies in wait. The authentic rural way of life in Alcoutim is a refreshing change to other towns in the Algarve. Its charm cannot escape visitors, inviting them to wander the streets or spend a peaceful hour by the water's edge.
Alcoutim's steep and narrow streets retain the calm atmosphere of an Algarve hill town. On the river bank you can enjoy a drink in one of the cafes while watching fishing boats returning with their catch, sailing yachts anchored in the marina, and the Portuguese town of São Lucas on the far shore. In both Alcoutim and the adjacent Portuguese village there are impressive castle ruins, eerily recalling centuries of intense vigilance across the border. The fear and loathing has gone, now all that separates the two communities is a narrow stretch of placid, slow-moving water. Alcoutim is situated at the point that the Guadiana becomes tidal, boats would often have to wait hours for the right conditions to sail towards the sea. It is for this reason that Alcoutim grew to such a considerable size, by supporting these suspensions in sailing and in defending the boarders. At the time of war between Portugal and Castile in the 14th century, a peace treaty between kings Fernando I and Henrique was signed in the middle of the river, opposite Alcoutim. Menhirs and dolmens suggest life was present in Alcoutim at the end of the Neolithic era (approx. 4,000B.C.). However Alcoutim was not substantially populated until the reign of King Dinis, who granted it a charter in 1304. Additionally because of its strategic location relating to Castile it was granted the Military Order of Santiago. By far one of the best things to do while in Alcoutim is to explore the surrounding countryside by boat. Upstream from Alcoutim there is the curious Rocha dos Livros / Rock of Books and the llha d'El Rei island. Downstream, the river meanders along gentle curves dotted with the white houses of riverside villages. Hiring a boat some say is the only way to truly appreciate the area, kids love it as well. Places of Interest The Castle - built in the 14th century to defend the border, the castle stands tall over the river. Inside a small museum, displays archaeological finds and the remains of the buildings discovered during excavations. Main Church - This is and example of the first Renaissance buildings erected in the Algarve, built between 1538 and 1554 on the site of a medieval church. It has a fine porch of great simplicity, the arms of Marquises of Vila Real and Counts of Alcoutim above. Inside The Hermitage of Nossa Senhora da Oliveira (Our Lady of the Olive Tree) dates back to the Middle Ages. Associated with a tradition of appearances by the Virgin in an olive tree, it was believed to have curative powers. Hermitage of Nossa Senhora da Conceição - Our Lady of the Conception - All that remains of the Manueline church that replaced the original Gothic structure is the porch. Dating from the 18th century the beautifully decorated baroque stairway gives access to a spacious atrium. This gives a spectacular view over the town and the surrounding fields, definitely worth the visit. Religious art museum - Inside the chapel is Portugal's religious art museum. Exhibiting an extensive range of religious works form the 16th to the 19th centuries. There is also information on all the churches of the Alcoutim county. Moorish settlement - At the top of one of the hills are the ruins of Castelo Velho. This was a Moorish settlement protected by ramparts and four-sided towers founded in the 8th and 9th centuries. The ruins are a fascinating reminder of a culture that had a profound influence on the Algarve but has left little material evidence of its presence. Martinlongo - not far from Alcoutim, Martinlongo offers fantastic attractions. The main church was originally a mosque. It consists of plain gothic porches and three naves separated by arches. Interestingly there is a Byzantine style influence, rarely found in Portugal. Inside strange gargoyles serve as support for the baptismal font and valuable treasures, including gilded vestments and silver holy objects can be found. Handicrafts - the ancient techniques of popular crafts are still present in Alcoutim where locals weave rag blankets, covers and linen cloths on wooden looms and make shawls, stockings, straw hats and lace. Alcoutim is a wonderful place to have a slightly different Algarve experience. The boat rides are absolutely fantastic and give you a real feel for the countryside away from the busy tourist centres such as Faro and Olhao further south. |
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